It was a sunny Tuesday afternoon, around 7:30 p.m., one of the last days of our summer holidays. On our way from the beach back to town we were looking forward to exploring the natural wonders of Pag Island. Eagerly, we set out for a hike. Our destination: the unique oak and hornbeam forest, the only deciduous forest on the island. This forest, a rare ecological gem, has adapted to the salty environment of the island, making it a precious genetic resource. Protected since 1988 as a Special Reserve of Forest Vegetation, it spans 28.45 hectares and represents the last remnant of its kind on Pag.
As we walked, I couldn't help but reflect on the historical and cultural significance of the oak tree. In Slavic mythology, the oak is sacred to Perun, the god of thunder and lightning. For the ancient Greeks, it was a symbol of Zeus, and for the Romans, of Jupiter. With the advent of Christianity, Perun's place might have been taken by Saint Vitus, as evidenced by the nearby hilltop named after him (Sv. Vid, the highest peak on the island at 348 meters).
This type of oak typically doesn't tolerate salty conditions and usually grows at higher altitudes (400 to 900 meters near the coast, and up to 1700 meters inland). Yet, here it thrives all the way to the sea, an extraordinary feat.
The forest path was well-maintained, and we took care to stay on it, mindful of the ancient belief that misfortune befalls anyone who fells a healthy oak. This legend lent an air of reverence to our journey.
In the 19th century, Austrian geologists conducted coal mining and geological surveys on Pag, discovering numerous fossils. Later, INA (Croatia's oil company) drilled for oil, uncovering Miocene layers dating back 18 million years. These layers tell a story of a time when the Adriatic was mostly land, dotted with many lakes. Fossils of a vast lake with diverse life forms were found, including evidence that Pag was connected to the mainland, now known as the Velebit mountain range, until about 35 million years ago. By the end of the Pleistocene, around 12,000 years ago, rising sea levels formed the Velebit Channel, giving Pag its present shape, with the Pag Bay resembling an elongated lake.
Curiosity piqued by the title, "Crocodiles Once Roamed Pag Island," you might think it's a fabrication. But it's true. Research revealed that Pag was once a marshy area near a lake, home to crocodiles, small mammals, shells, and fish, all amidst dense marsh vegetation. Among the many fossils discovered, the most intriguing were a crocodile tooth and a rare Valvata snail fossil. Today, the forest hosts a variety of wildlife, including numerous bats that feed at dusk and along the forest road, and one of Europe's largest beetles, the stag beetle (Lucanus cervus), with males boasting antler-like mandibles.
Tempted to stay until dusk to see the bats and beetles, I kept my thoughts to myself, knowing others might hold me to it. Would you have stayed?
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