Rasto Kirn
sustainability planner, perpetual tourist and gourmand
  • domov
  • blog (SI)
  • Home (EN)
  • Blog (EN)
  • Blog (RU)
  • Slovenija
    • gospodarstvo >
      • Alpska Slovenija >
        • Maribor
        • Rogla - Pohorje
        • Solčavsko
      • Termalna panonska Slovenija >
        • Ptuj
      • Ljubljana & centralna Slovenija >
        • Ljubljana
      • Mediteranska & kraška Slovenija >
        • Piran
    • trajnost
    • hrana in pijača

A Family Adventure in Slovenia’s Hidden Corners: Castles, Bats, and a Ship

13/4/2025

0 Comments

 
The World Food Travel Day is just around a corner, so this past Sunday, our family set out for a day of exploration in eastern Slovenia, chasing history, nature, and good food. With the kids in tow and a sunny spring day ahead, we visited two charming castles—Podčetrtek and Podsreda—and wrapped up with a hearty meal at a family favorite in Poljčane, lovingly dubbed the ‘Ship Pizzeria’ by our little ones. Here’s a glimpse of our adventure, sprinkled with tips for fellow travelers and insights for tourism professionals looking to showcase Slovenia’s lesser-known gems.

​​First Stop: Podčetrtek Castle – Views and Virtual History
Picture
​Perched on a rocky outcrop above Podčetrtek’s lively town square, Podčetrtek Castle is a work in progress, slowly being reborn after a recent partial renovation. While it’s still finding its full potential, what’s already there is well worth a visit. The terrace, complete with a cozy bar, offers breathtaking views of the square below—a perfect spot for parents to sip coffee while the kids marvel at the scenery.
Picture
Picture
Picture
​The castle’s standout feature is its interactive courtroom, where three virtual displays bring historical events to life. Our kids were glued to the screens, giggling as they ‘participated’ in medieval trials. Another highlight was the path to the castle, where augmented reality signs along the way show a bat ‘flying’ around you—our youngest thought it was pure magic! For tourism professionals, this blend of tech and history is a great example of how to engage younger visitors while keeping things educational. My tip? Promote the terrace as a must-visit for its views, and consider adding guided tours to flesh out the castle’s story for history buffs.
Picture
​
​Second Stop: Podsreda Castle – A Compact Gem with Bats Galore
Picture
​A short drive away, Podsreda Castle above Kozje village stole our hearts. This small but content-packed fortress feels like a step back in time, with its centuries-old walls transformed into captivating exhibit spaces. The friendly receptionist handed us audio guides and explained the self-guided tour, which made the visit seamless even with restless kids.
Picture
Picture
Picture
​The castle’s history—once a near-empty shell, now a layered masterpiece of architecture—was fascinating, but the real showstopper was the attic, home to over a hundred bats! Our family stood in awe, watching these tiny creatures cling to the rafters. It’s a rare chance to connect with nature in such an unexpected setting. For tourism pros, Podsreda’s bat colony is a unique selling point—pair it with eco-conscious messaging to attract nature lovers. My advice for visitors: in cold months bring a light jacket for the chilly attic, and don’t skip the audio guide for the full experience.

​​Final Stop: Poljčane’s ‘Ship Pizzeria’ – A Family Feast
Late in the afternoon, it was time to head home, and I was reminded of the kind of homemade food our grandmothers used to prepare. The Styrian culinary tradition is rich, rooted in the countryside, influenced by the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and based on locally grown ingredients. Boiled or baked štruklji, buckwheat spoonbread (žganci), wintertime pork feasts (koline), sour soup, and cured meats – here, white wine and apple cider are at home, and for dessert, there’s apple strudel or potica. Just thinking about a small part of these culinary delights made my stomach growl. “Let’s stop at the first inn on the way,” I announced. And so we arrived in Poljčane. In fact, it was a familiar restaurant, which the kids call “The Ship Pizzeria” because of the wooden ship-shaped playground. Despite the bustling Sunday crowd, we snagged the last free table, and the waiter was at our side in a flash—top-notch service!
Picture
The restaurant is actually more of a pizzeria than a traditional inn. Based on the menu, my wife and I decided to share the squid trio, which turned out to be almost too much for two people. Hmm, admittedly, this isn’t exactly traditional homemade food, considering the sea is over 200 kilometers away. But supporting a local restaurant still counts for something, I told myself reassuringly.
The lively atmosphere was perfect for unwinding, and the kids raced to the playground after their meal, giving us a moment to relax. For tourism professionals, this spot is a goldmine for family-friendly itineraries—its proximity to major routes makes it an ideal stop for travelers exploring eastern Slovenia. My tip? Highlight the playground in promotions to draw in families, and maybe offer a lighter portion of the squid platter for smaller appetites!

​​Why This Trip Matters
​This day trip reminded us why Slovenia’s smaller destinations deserve more love. Podčetrtek and Podsreda castles offer a mix of history, innovation, and nature that’s perfect for families and curious travelers alike, while Poljčane’s restaurant proves that good food and a kid-friendly vibe can make any journey memorable. For tourism professionals, these spots highlight the power of authentic, sustainable experiences—whether it’s leveraging AR technology, promoting wildlife conservation, or catering to families on the go.
​Our family left with full hearts (and stomachs!), already planning our next adventure. If you’re passing through eastern Slovenia, add these stops to your list—you won’t be disappointed!

​​Have you visited any hidden gems in Slovenia lately? Share your tips in the comments, or reach out for ideas on planning your next family-friendly trip!

Grad Podčetrtek, Cesta na Grad 37, 3254 Podčetrtek
+386 (0)2 810 90 13, cafe +386 (0)68 148 504
[email protected], [email protected]
https://www.visitpodcetrtek.com/en/home

Grad Podsreda, Podsreda 103, 3257 Podsreda
+386 (0)3 5806 118, +386 (0)3 800 7100
[email protected]
https://www.visitpodcetrtek.com/en/attractions/podsreda-castle
​
Plac pod Bočem, Bistriška cesta 99, 2319 Poljčane
+386 (0)70 375 378
[email protected]
https://placpodbocem.si/
0 Comments

Pomurje

14/4/2024

0 Comments

 
Picture
Since World Food Travel Day is on April 18th, and from April 12th to April 21st, 2024, it's also Slovenian Tourist Farms Week, we've decided to celebrate both events simultaneously! With our family, we chose to venture to the far northeast corner of the country, to Pomurje. The land on both sides of the Mura River is a plain, the bottom of the former Pannonian Sea, now known as the granary of Slovenia.
Picture
While each of Slovenia's 24 culinary regions has its own specialties, we decided to explore the tastes of Pomurje this weekend. Spring is the time when nature awakens all its colors and scents, so we decided to spend part of the weekend in nature. A stroll through meadows, breathing in fresh air, observing flowers, and of course, some food along the way—this was our plan!
Picture
As a family, we started our journey a bit more relaxed this time and set out in the early afternoon. Mom was partly to blame for her morning obligations (work), and of course, we children were also to blame for taking our time getting ready. So, we decided that our first stop on the road would be for food. Our attempts to make lunch reservations at some tourist farms via phone were unsuccessful due to full capacity, so we opted for a local inn in Cankova.
Picture
Gostilna Ajda is situated right by the state border. To get there, we took a slightly shorter route through Austria. Since being already a bit hungry, that turned out to be an excellent decision! With the help of a friendly host, we easily found some delicious dishes from the original Pokmurje cuisine. Of course, I must mention that the children happily chose their favorite dishes (if there's no fried potatoes on the menu, only pizza satisfies them, and they even got that - a margherita with dough according to the original house recipe, baked in a wood-fired oven), while my wife and I enjoyed more refined flavors.
Picture
Picture
When Mom chose “ajdova zdevanka” (buckwheat žganci), the host happily explained that it's a kind of thick pancake made from buckwheat flour filled with cracklings, and baked in a wood-fired oven. When I found out that “pujskov file po cigansko" means pork tenderloin, buckwheat dödöle with sour cream and caramelized onions, I had no more questions. Just a glass of homemade white wine, please!
Picture
Picture
Once we finally gathered the strength to get up from the table, let's go sniff some flowers! First, we headed to Lake Ledava, located in the Goričko Landscape Park. We expected plenty of interesting flora and fauna, but we were a bit mistaken. Instead of flowers, we found only fields on both sides of the road. Perhaps we should have realized earlier that every piece of land here is dedicated to cultivation. But we're looking for wildflowers? So, we decided to take a different path.
Picture
We followed roads, observing fields of wheat, rapeseed, and much more that we couldn't recognize at this stage of growth. Occasionally we stopped, and as we inhaled the scent of nature (mostly actually manure!), we remembered how different it is in the city. It never smells so strong in the city, but it's more natural here, I comforted myself. And we continued.
Picture
After a few stops and some photography, we were almost on the highway to Budapest, but we unanimously decided that it would be too far ;-) Instead, we stopped at Expano, near Murska Sobota. We had been here several times before, so we opted for a walk around the area. But this time, we were greeted with a real surprise! Despite the warm April sun, we could hardly believe our eyes when we saw some enthusiasts (or maybe lunatics?) who had decided to take a refreshing swim. Yes, the former gravel pit of a local construction company has been transformed into a tourist center with additional programs (exhibition-museum, culinary, dry and water recreation). And there's a lot going on here...
Picture
Picture
Still full from an excellent lunch, we decided on ice cream. Since we didn't find any at Expano, we knew we had to hurry back to Maribor, home. Here, our neighbor from the Lastovka ice cream parlor took care of giving us an additional boost to our mood at the end of the journey.

Gostišče Ajda, Cankova 33, 9261 Cankova, Slovenija
+386 (0)2 540 13 78, +386 (0)31 692 500, +386 (0)31 555 612
[email protected]
http://www.gostisce-ajda-bagola.si/

Expano, Bakovska ulica 41, 9000 Murska Sobota, Slovenija
+386 (0)8 201 53 70
[email protected]
https://www.expano.si/en

Lastovka, Trg revolucije 9, 2000 Maribor, Slovenija
+386 (0)31 744 813

[email protected]
https://lastovka.eu/en/

0 Comments

Enchanting Fusion of Slovenian Tradition and Tourism

27/8/2023

0 Comments

 
Picture
Slovenia is a small enchanting country that has long been ranked among popular tourist destinations. It also plays a significant role in the international sustainability community; its destinations and providers are strongly involved in the Green Scheme of Slovenian Tourism, and consequently, in Green Destinations as well. It captivates visitors with its natural beauty, rich cultural heritage, and exceptional hospitality. In the Slovenian economy, tourism plays a crucial role, contributing to job creation, revenue growth, and the promotion of everything this picturesque land offers. Diverse forms of tourism, such as cultural, natural, adventure, and culinary tourism, allow visitors to delve into various facets of Slovenia.
In this blog post, I'm introducing one of the hidden gems of Slovenian tourism - tourist farms. While not as prominent as bustling cities or the most renowned attractions, these farms possess a unique charm. A visit to a tourist farm embodies both a modern trend and an immersion into rich tradition.
Despite more than half of Slovenians residing in urban areas, Slovenia presents itself as an open landscape (at least at first glance). Slovenian agriculture holds greater emotional than economic significance, as the intertwining of tradition, culture, and nature remains prevalent in rural life. Unfortunately, in recent decades, agriculture has encountered numerous challenges, hence the necessity to seek new means of survival and maintain its role in the modern world. Enter tourist farms - a role ideally suited. This innovative concept merges traditional agricultural activities with tourism.
Picture
Tourist farms represent a fusion of rural life and unique experiences for visitors. In doing so, they not only revitalize the economy of local communities but also preserve heritage and tradition while promoting sustainable development. On these farms, guests can immerse themselves in the daily life of a farmer, learn about food production processes, and relish authentic flavors of homemade dishes crafted from fresh ingredients grown on the very farm.
Tourist farms are a form of rural tourism that operates under specific conditions. Four types of farm tourism are distinguished:
Tourist Farm with Accommodation offers guests the opportunity to stay on the farm with provisions for meals or apartment rentals.
Excursion Tourist Farm provides guests with hot and cold meals and beverages.
Wine Cellar (Vinotoč) offers cold snacks, wine, and non-alcoholic beverages.
"Osmica" (Temporary Wine Tavern) offers wine, non-alcoholic beverages, three locally characteristic hot dishes, cold snacks, bread, and pastries.
Camping Space as the name suggests, it provides guests with camping facilities on the farm.
These diverse offerings on tourist farms cater to various preferences, making them an integral part of the Slovenian rural tourism experience.
To visit Slovenian tourist farms, it's necessary to make arrangements in advance. Excursion tourist farms and wine cellars are generally open only on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and holidays. "Osmice" also follow the tradition dating back to the time of Maria Theresa's monarchy and can be open twice a year for up to ten days.
In the next part of this blog, we will delve into one of these charming excursion farms, which serves as a perfect example of how tradition intertwines with innovation in the welcoming embrace of the Slovenian countryside. Get ready to uncover the secrets offered by this unique farm and to get to know the people and stories behind it. So, let's finally set off to our destination for today!
Picture
Koren Farm by Korošec is located along the Maribor Wine Road on Kozjak, in the immediate vicinity of the idyllic village of Gaj nad Mariborom. It's tucked away from the urban hustle and bustle, nestled in the embrace of nature.
Picture
Picture
Picture
Picture
We've been visiting this excursion farm for years. They offer both hot and cold dishes along with beverages. On weekends, they serve home-cooked lunches, and during winter, they prepare traditional pig slaughter dishes.
Picture
This Sunday, on a wonderfully cloudless summer afternoon, with the temperature soaring above 35º C, we were convinced to find a table under the shade of the walnut tree. As usual, my wife and I craved a local platter and a glass of sweet Muscat wine, brought by the host from their 140-year-old wine cellar. The kids, with their sweet tooth, also opted for a cheese-filled gibanica pastry (though sometimes they prefer apple pie).
Picture
Picture
Picture
Heartwarming hospitality comes naturally to all three generations that consider the Koren Farm their home. Their affection for the well-maintained estate and their welcoming attitude toward visitors deserves admiration. Perhaps their involvement in one of the tourism programs will bring them even greater recognition. In truth, I'd rather see "our farm" remain our secret, but that hasn't been the case for a long time.
Picture
Picture
The younger members of our family were eager to get better acquainted with the domestic animals, but these had their tasks and paid them no mind.
Picture
At the farm we felt so at home that we've already arranged for a visit this autumn, when they'll treat us to roasted chestnuts and new wine. This time as well, we didn't rise from the table until there was nothing left to indulge in. Some even managed to sneak in a nap in between bites ;-)
Picture
After all the goodness, it was a bit difficult to set out for a walk. The road to Tojzlov Vrh passes by the farm, so we decided to make it as our own. I console myself with the thought that we admired nature, lamented the aftermath of a natural disaster, and even got in some exercise along the way, since we didn't quite make it to the top ;-)
Picture
Picture
Picture

Izletniška kmetija Koren pri Korošcu, Šober 23, Bresternica, Slovenija
+386 (0)31 735 030, +386 (0)2 656 06 91
[email protected]
https://www.turisticnekmetije.si/kmetija/koren-pri-koroscu
0 Comments

Festival of Walks, Maribor

24/3/2018

0 Comments

 
Picture
Ending March (22- 3. - 24. 3. 2018) Rajzefiber agency with supporters arranged Festivals of Walks in Maribor to promote some of the attractions in town. My heart raced hard from the day of announcing the festival and I applied for all the events that were timely possible. Let me tell you a bit about the ones connected to food and wine, i.e. culinary of Styria region..

Taste Maribor!
Picture
Medieval Carinthian road (Koroška cesta) was leading farmers to the market on Main square (Glavni trg)
Taste Maribor! was called the walk through some places strongly connected to food. Slovenia is a small country so its neighbours are close and influential. From Maribor there is just fifteen minutes drive to Austria, half an hour to Croatia, an hour to Hungary and two hours to Italy. Each of them had influence on nutrition and eating habits.
Picture
Picture
It was Gostilnica "Pri Damah" (restaurant) that we visited first, social entrepreneurship on the right river bank. The manager introduced the kitchen, they mostly prepare porridge dishes (spoon food). We tried two of them, "ričet" and "bograč" and two beverages, "melisin sok" and "bezgov sok", everything made from ecological stuff in house and not expensive. It brought me back to times of my grandmother who knew cooking such dishes. I enjoyed food and memories..
Picture
Picture
On our way through town centre on the left bank of Drava river we have almost overseen the “Zadruga Dobrina” (cooperative) greengrocery shop. It is located in a narrow passage but making great impression with selling locally grown food and vegetables. Visiting small shop one can subscribe to weekly delivered “green box” - agricultural products from wider area. We tasted some varieties of cheese and got warm with walnut liqueur.
Picture
Picture
Introduction through words and plates (Beef salad is called "essig fleisch" here).
“Gostilna Maribor” (restaurant and hotel) was our next stop. This one was impossible to oversee since it is located on the Main square. Three hundred years old house was recently professionally renovated. Old walls still speak of rich history but allow one to enjoy modern amenities. We first enjoyed the welcome speech and introduction of hotel manager and then got into the culinary part of the offer. What was to taste? There were dishes like fried chicken, red chicory with warm potatoes and greaves and beef salad. I couldn’t help myself but tried all of it. Delicious. And surprised since I have never tasted such a combination of chicory salad before. A glass of dry wine, produced just outskirts of town, fit nicely, too.
Picture
Picture
Maribor was once part of Habsburg's imperium so here one can catch real coffee house feeling. Former Casino was converted to charming eclectic bar, concert room, gallery and shop.
Last post of this tour was former coffee house and casino, today “Salon uporabnih umetnosti” (Salon of Applied Arts). Over one hundred years old house was architectural pearl when built. Nowadays it is hosting artists when selling or performing. Old glory might even come back, it is also used for concerts and dancing again. Well, time was not right so we just let us serve some coffee and herbal tea (herbs harvested on Pohorje hill on southern border of town). This was very nice finish of festival walk, to rest our feet and exchange impressions.

​Beer Tasting Walk
Picture
This was the name of another festival event in Maribor that I succeeded to take part. Once a drink of blue collar workers beer became much more appreciated in last twenty or thirty years. In fact, with introduction of small breweries and craft beer selection it is already searching after its own clientele. Beer tour was guided by the owner of special beer shop in Maribor, so we heard and learned a lot.
Picture
Gambrinus bar is Mekka for afficionados of football and best czech beer.
Everything begins with first step. Ours was into Gambrinus bar, small place of deep and strong feelings. Locals frequent it as football fans and dark interior is full of football relics. There is more behind, though. Gambrinus as personality from Middle Ages was a patron of beer brewing and the house where bar is located was once a brewery, too. The owner is inclined to czech varieties of beer that resemble the taste of beer once brewed here. It was Poutnik lager beer in fact that we drank. Light in taste.
Picture
Picture
Cool bar Isabella in the middle of Post way (Poštna ulica), alive day and night, has dedicated pipes for best slovenian craft beers.
Few streets away totally different interior waited for us. Isabella is a modern bar - shiny surfaces, new tastes. We got Human Fish beer to taste, brewed in Slovenia. Human Fish is also the name of first slovenian craft brewery. Our sample was Combat Wombat, beer combination of five types of hops, of light amber color and dirty white foam head. It was just strong enough that language brakes of our international group loosened.
Picture
Third and final stop was at Pivarna, the only beer shop in Maribor. Three samples of beer were arranged, Tetkina radost, Champion and Hop Hazard, Pale Ale, all from Lobik Brewery, Maribor.  This one holds title of the best newcomer craft beer brewery in Slovenia 2017.
​How should I comment? I liked all those samples, full smell and taste they have all even when different, but to bring home I bought Champion!

​Maribor Wine Tour
Picture
When speaking about terroir I always think of Piramid Hill just above the old town.
This one was the last on my schedule. This festival walk should have been best organised because Tourism information office in Maribor already sells this tour. Introduction was short since in Maribor one learns about wines on every corner. History goes back to Romans who brought vine here. But it was Austrian Archduke Janez (Johann Baptist Josef Fabian Sebastian) that found viticulture in Styria left behind and transfered wine varieties of the Rhine vineyards to his Meranovo estate near Maribor. Great success made this the center of modern viticulture in Slovenian and Austrian Styria.
Picture
Picture
We had three stops scheduled. International group was first led to Dveri pax, wine shop and bar in Slavija office building. We tried two dry wines, Šipon from 2016 and Rhein Riesling from 2015. None of them made lasting impression, I would prefere them with food. But I know, it is dry that is trendy!
Picture
Picture
A bit of sunshine is simply not enough for nature to wake up. Anyway, Water Tower (Vodni stolp) welcomes visitors all year long, Slovenes and tourist alike like it outside.
Just few minutes away flows Drava river. There is a remarkable medieval building on the bank, called Vinoteka Vodni stolp (Water Tover Wine Shop), where first slovenian wine shop is situated. Small surprise awaited us, we got three samples: Šipon again, but from Puklavec wineyards, Sauvignon from Malečnik and house wine called Vodni stolp. While all wines that we tasted were straight, the last one was blended (Šipon, Sauvignon, Rhein Riesling). It didn't win.
Picture
Picture
Last stop at Lent, again on the river bank was the most anticipated! There was the Old Vine house, a wine muzeum and also/maybe the best stocked wine shop in Slovenia. In front of house grows the Old Vine, by Guiness Book of Records acknowledged as the oldest noble Vine in the world, with proof of being more than 400 yers old. Žametna črnina (black velvet variety of grapevine) still brings grapes, which accounts for about 20 litres of wine yearly, put in artistically designed small bottles. No, we didn't taste it, it only serves protocol (like presidential visits).
Picture
What did we taste at the Old Vine house? First sample was young wine (ranina, 2017) from Steyer, followed by Sauvignon blanc from 2017, produced by Kobal, dry and straight, smell and taste fuller than varieties we tasted before. But it was Muscat (rumeni muškat) from Senekovič later, half sweet wine of 2016 with great bouquet that really brought smiles to our faces. Nobody thought about what is en vogue (fresh and dry) or about the "long road" that we walked along until coming here, the museum guide had hard time answering our questions. This clearly was the winner, yes!

​Chili and Chocolate Festival
Picture
Did I mention there was Chili & Chocolate Festival in Maribor last Saturday, too? Hard to believe these two ingredients go together well. But one can buy and taste some interesting, funny things like chocolate wafel with chili. I did. And didn't feel the expected hot taste. "Complaining" about it the lady said my expectations could not be met because the wafels were made for children ;-)
Picture
I just don't want to look back and think "I could have eaten that!"
Anyway, street food as a niche product (be it on food trucks or stalls) is slowly catching ground. Few festivals throughout the year are held to promote this kind of food. For now people think of it more like attraction than something to be taken seriously.

All photos made during days of festival: ©2018 Rasto Kirn & ©2018 Olesya Kirn
0 Comments

    Author

    Architect by education,
    ​Planner by profession,
    Tourist by heart and
    Foodie by soul...

    Archives

    April 2025
    October 2024
    April 2024
    March 2024
    August 2023
    July 2021
    March 2018

    Categories

    All
    Food & Drinks
    Planning & Architecture
    Tourism

    RSS Feed

Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.