How about celebrating this year’s World Food Day myself? Since I’m much better at typing on a keyboard than wielding a hoe (and honestly, I don’t even have any land to farm!), I’ve decided—after some thought—to write a short article on the topic of food and local tourism. It’s a subject that’s close to my heart, maybe a little too close considering my waistline !;-) As a small municipality on the outskirts of the city, Kungota is an attractive place to live, located just a 15-minute drive from the center of Maribor, the second-largest city in Slovenia. This proximity gives Kungota the advantage of being non-industrialized. Home to 5,000 residents, the community is closely integrated with nature, despite its urbanized settlements. The local economy is marked by agriculture, particularly food production (as nearby municipalities supply their surplus to the city) and agritourism. The entire municipality falls within a wine-growing region, featuring excellent sunlit slopes ideal for producing premium white wines. The border area with Austria runs along the South Styrian Wine Road, which, on fine days, sees traffic nearly at a standstill as tourists from both Austria to the north and Slovenia to the south flock to the area. Most wine producers here are still farmers who supplement their income with beekeeping and tourism. The majority offer a quality selection of wines. Pure winemakers invite visitors for tastings in wine cellars and produce enough for sales as well. Farmers often serve local delicacies like home-cooked meals and cured meats. About half of them also provide accommodations. What about the culinary offerings? A typical Sunday meal features three courses: beef or mushroom soup, followed by a main course of meat (pork, beef, or poultry) with a side (potatoes or pasta) and a salad (seasonal), and, of course, dessert (like the traditional gibanica pastry). Guests may have specific requests, but the menu is shaped by local ingredients. Here, the concept of “from garden to table” is truly literal! And no meal is complete without a glass of wine or, for children, local apple juice. Kungota’s appeal extends beyond its culinary offerings. Four historic churches, ranging from 600 to 800 years old, the Svečina Castle, and a viticulture museum are cultural magnets for visitors. They can enjoy hiking, electric bikes, and horseback riding, which builds up an appetite. Across the rolling hills of this 50 km² area, there are 15 wine cellars and 10 tourist farms, along with a handful of bars and inns in the villages. While local bars are open regularly, the farm-based offerings are generally reserved for weekends and holidays.
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Since World Food Travel Day is on April 18th, and from April 12th to April 21st, 2024, it's also Slovenian Tourist Farms Week, we've decided to celebrate both events simultaneously! With our family, we chose to venture to the far northeast corner of the country, to Pomurje. The land on both sides of the Mura River is a plain, the bottom of the former Pannonian Sea, now known as the granary of Slovenia. While each of Slovenia's 24 culinary regions has its own specialties, we decided to explore the tastes of Pomurje this weekend. Spring is the time when nature awakens all its colors and scents, so we decided to spend part of the weekend in nature. A stroll through meadows, breathing in fresh air, observing flowers, and of course, some food along the way—this was our plan! As a family, we started our journey a bit more relaxed this time and set out in the early afternoon. Mom was partly to blame for her morning obligations (work), and of course, we children were also to blame for taking our time getting ready. So, we decided that our first stop on the road would be for food. Our attempts to make lunch reservations at some tourist farms via phone were unsuccessful due to full capacity, so we opted for a local inn in Cankova. Gostilna Ajda is situated right by the state border. To get there, we took a slightly shorter route through Austria. Since being already a bit hungry, that turned out to be an excellent decision! With the help of a friendly host, we easily found some delicious dishes from the original Pokmurje cuisine. Of course, I must mention that the children happily chose their favorite dishes (if there's no fried potatoes on the menu, only pizza satisfies them, and they even got that - a margherita with dough according to the original house recipe, baked in a wood-fired oven), while my wife and I enjoyed more refined flavors. When Mom chose “ajdova zdevanka” (buckwheat žganci), the host happily explained that it's a kind of thick pancake made from buckwheat flour filled with cracklings, and baked in a wood-fired oven. When I found out that “pujskov file po cigansko" means pork tenderloin, buckwheat dödöle with sour cream and caramelized onions, I had no more questions. Just a glass of homemade white wine, please! Once we finally gathered the strength to get up from the table, let's go sniff some flowers! First, we headed to Lake Ledava, located in the Goričko Landscape Park. We expected plenty of interesting flora and fauna, but we were a bit mistaken. Instead of flowers, we found only fields on both sides of the road. Perhaps we should have realized earlier that every piece of land here is dedicated to cultivation. But we're looking for wildflowers? So, we decided to take a different path. We followed roads, observing fields of wheat, rapeseed, and much more that we couldn't recognize at this stage of growth. Occasionally we stopped, and as we inhaled the scent of nature (mostly actually manure!), we remembered how different it is in the city. It never smells so strong in the city, but it's more natural here, I comforted myself. And we continued. After a few stops and some photography, we were almost on the highway to Budapest, but we unanimously decided that it would be too far ;-) Instead, we stopped at Expano, near Murska Sobota. We had been here several times before, so we opted for a walk around the area. But this time, we were greeted with a real surprise! Despite the warm April sun, we could hardly believe our eyes when we saw some enthusiasts (or maybe lunatics?) who had decided to take a refreshing swim. Yes, the former gravel pit of a local construction company has been transformed into a tourist center with additional programs (exhibition-museum, culinary, dry and water recreation). And there's a lot going on here... Still full from an excellent lunch, we decided on ice cream. Since we didn't find any at Expano, we knew we had to hurry back to Maribor, home. Here, our neighbor from the Lastovka ice cream parlor took care of giving us an additional boost to our mood at the end of the journey. Gostišče Ajda, Cankova 33, 9261 Cankova, Slovenija
+386 (0)2 540 13 78, +386 (0)31 692 500, +386 (0)31 555 612 [email protected] http://www.gostisce-ajda-bagola.si/ Expano, Bakovska ulica 41, 9000 Murska Sobota, Slovenija +386 (0)8 201 53 70 [email protected] https://www.expano.si/en Lastovka, Trg revolucije 9, 2000 Maribor, Slovenija +386 (0)31 744 813 [email protected] https://lastovka.eu/en/ The capital of Croatia has once again shone brightly in the enchanting glow of the international festival of lights for the sixth consecutive time. The Spring Festival of Lights in Zagreb may not yet rival the popularity of Christmas markets or festivals along the Adriatic coast, but it still draws visitors with its unique magic. Visitors were offered an insight into the city's cultural richness, the intertwining of tradition and modernity, and artistic creativity. Although Zagreb, as the capital of Croatia, has only begun to gain more tourist recognition in recent years, the Spring Festival of Lights has already become one of the city's most prominent events. The lights, which illuminated the city in all their dazzling beauty, were installed by international artists. They came together from various European countries to create this magical experience for visitors. During this multi-day (-evenings) event, the streets and parks of Zagreb were aglow with light and color. A stroll through the city felt like a journey through a fairy tale land, where walkers encountered new surprises with every step. The light installations, placed along the streets, in squares, and in parks, were like magical portals to another world. Each of the festival's venues was unique, inviting visitors of all ages to explore the light sculptures with curiosity and delight. Visitors had the opportunity to merge with the light installations and become part of the artistic expression. Children, in particular, were thrilled by how light transformed into different shapes and colors, sparking their curiosity and creativity. Regardless of the nature of the visitors (whether art enthusiasts, families, or simply curious travelers) the Spring Festival of Lights in Zagreb was an unforgettable experience. In the heart of the Croatian capital, it provided opportunities to create precious memories and inspiring moments. With its unique blend of culture, art, and light, the festival undoubtedly attracts audiences from both near and far. The city streets were packed deep into the evening. All this hustle and bustle over successive evenings represent an indispensable part of Zagreb's spring event lineup.
Slovenia is a small enchanting country that has long been ranked among popular tourist destinations. It also plays a significant role in the international sustainability community; its destinations and providers are strongly involved in the Green Scheme of Slovenian Tourism, and consequently, in Green Destinations as well. It captivates visitors with its natural beauty, rich cultural heritage, and exceptional hospitality. In the Slovenian economy, tourism plays a crucial role, contributing to job creation, revenue growth, and the promotion of everything this picturesque land offers. Diverse forms of tourism, such as cultural, natural, adventure, and culinary tourism, allow visitors to delve into various facets of Slovenia. In this blog post, I'm introducing one of the hidden gems of Slovenian tourism - tourist farms. While not as prominent as bustling cities or the most renowned attractions, these farms possess a unique charm. A visit to a tourist farm embodies both a modern trend and an immersion into rich tradition. Despite more than half of Slovenians residing in urban areas, Slovenia presents itself as an open landscape (at least at first glance). Slovenian agriculture holds greater emotional than economic significance, as the intertwining of tradition, culture, and nature remains prevalent in rural life. Unfortunately, in recent decades, agriculture has encountered numerous challenges, hence the necessity to seek new means of survival and maintain its role in the modern world. Enter tourist farms - a role ideally suited. This innovative concept merges traditional agricultural activities with tourism. Tourist farms represent a fusion of rural life and unique experiences for visitors. In doing so, they not only revitalize the economy of local communities but also preserve heritage and tradition while promoting sustainable development. On these farms, guests can immerse themselves in the daily life of a farmer, learn about food production processes, and relish authentic flavors of homemade dishes crafted from fresh ingredients grown on the very farm. Tourist farms are a form of rural tourism that operates under specific conditions. Four types of farm tourism are distinguished: Tourist Farm with Accommodation offers guests the opportunity to stay on the farm with provisions for meals or apartment rentals. Excursion Tourist Farm provides guests with hot and cold meals and beverages. Wine Cellar (Vinotoč) offers cold snacks, wine, and non-alcoholic beverages. "Osmica" (Temporary Wine Tavern) offers wine, non-alcoholic beverages, three locally characteristic hot dishes, cold snacks, bread, and pastries. Camping Space as the name suggests, it provides guests with camping facilities on the farm. These diverse offerings on tourist farms cater to various preferences, making them an integral part of the Slovenian rural tourism experience. To visit Slovenian tourist farms, it's necessary to make arrangements in advance. Excursion tourist farms and wine cellars are generally open only on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and holidays. "Osmice" also follow the tradition dating back to the time of Maria Theresa's monarchy and can be open twice a year for up to ten days. In the next part of this blog, we will delve into one of these charming excursion farms, which serves as a perfect example of how tradition intertwines with innovation in the welcoming embrace of the Slovenian countryside. Get ready to uncover the secrets offered by this unique farm and to get to know the people and stories behind it. So, let's finally set off to our destination for today! Koren Farm by Korošec is located along the Maribor Wine Road on Kozjak, in the immediate vicinity of the idyllic village of Gaj nad Mariborom. It's tucked away from the urban hustle and bustle, nestled in the embrace of nature. We've been visiting this excursion farm for years. They offer both hot and cold dishes along with beverages. On weekends, they serve home-cooked lunches, and during winter, they prepare traditional pig slaughter dishes. This Sunday, on a wonderfully cloudless summer afternoon, with the temperature soaring above 35º C, we were convinced to find a table under the shade of the walnut tree. As usual, my wife and I craved a local platter and a glass of sweet Muscat wine, brought by the host from their 140-year-old wine cellar. The kids, with their sweet tooth, also opted for a cheese-filled gibanica pastry (though sometimes they prefer apple pie). Heartwarming hospitality comes naturally to all three generations that consider the Koren Farm their home. Their affection for the well-maintained estate and their welcoming attitude toward visitors deserves admiration. Perhaps their involvement in one of the tourism programs will bring them even greater recognition. In truth, I'd rather see "our farm" remain our secret, but that hasn't been the case for a long time. The younger members of our family were eager to get better acquainted with the domestic animals, but these had their tasks and paid them no mind. At the farm we felt so at home that we've already arranged for a visit this autumn, when they'll treat us to roasted chestnuts and new wine. This time as well, we didn't rise from the table until there was nothing left to indulge in. Some even managed to sneak in a nap in between bites ;-) After all the goodness, it was a bit difficult to set out for a walk. The road to Tojzlov Vrh passes by the farm, so we decided to make it as our own. I console myself with the thought that we admired nature, lamented the aftermath of a natural disaster, and even got in some exercise along the way, since we didn't quite make it to the top ;-) Izletniška kmetija Koren pri Korošcu, Šober 23, Bresternica, Slovenija +386 (0)31 735 030, +386 (0)2 656 06 91 [email protected] https://www.turisticnekmetije.si/kmetija/koren-pri-koroscu PrimoštenPrimošten, a picturesque Dalmatian town, captivates visitors with its medieval atmosphere. Charming stone houses, narrow streets, and stunning sea views create a romantic backdrop for a relaxing vacation. The idyllic Primošten, a beautiful fishing settlement, enchants with its rich historical heritage and authentic Mediterranean charm. Situated on a peninsula along the Adriatic Sea, this stunning town is a true gem. Its stone houses in narrow alleys preserve its unique identity, bearing witness to the medieval history of Dalmatia and creating a distinctive atmosphere for visitors seeking to enjoy the magical Adriatic environment. Primošten's history dates back to ancient times when Greek and Roman inhabitants settled here. In the Middle Ages, Primošten developed as a defensive settlement built on a hill. Its strategic position provided an excellent vantage point over the sea and the surroundings. Walls and towers played a crucial role in protecting Primošten from attacks and piracy. The centerpiece of Primošten is the stone church of St. George, its predecessor having been built atop the hill in the 15th century. The church is surrounded by a park and a cemetery that cover the entire tip of the peninsula. From here, a breathtaking view of the coastline and islands unfolds. Well, this actually seems like a pleasant place for eternal rest, doesn't it? In addition to its historical sacred landmarks, Primošten offers charming secular architecture, stone houses, narrow streets, and picturesque squares. The town is a true historical gem of the Mediterranean coast, defying time and preserving its authentic appearance. It's a place where even modern visitors can stroll down cobblestone streets, discover hidden corners, and immerse themselves in a past that seamlessly blends with the present in a unique way. Primošten and its surroundings have a diverse economic structure based on local resources and needs. Overall, the economic landscape of Primošten is a successful blend of natural resources and the area's cultural heritage. Tourism is a central economic activity in Primošten and its vicinity. Beautiful beaches, picturesque surroundings, historical landmarks, and the preserved Mediterranean atmosphere attract visitors. Hospitality establishments, accommodations, tourist agencies, and other services are pivotal to the local economy. Fishing, supported by its coastal location, plays an important role in the area's economy. The Primošten region is also known for producing wines, olives, and other agricultural products. Locally produced olive oils, wines, and other goods are significant sources for both local consumption and sales. Shops, gastronomy, and other services (crafting and selling ceramics, textiles, jewelry, and other traditional crafts) cater to the needs of both residents and tourists.
SplitThe capital of Dalmatia, the largest Dalmatian and the second largest Croatian city, is Split. It boasts an exceptional historical heritage that combines ancient architecture with modern life, presenting a unique chapter in the history of Dalmatia. The city is primarily known for its spectacular Diocletian's Palace. This ancient complex is the central part of the city, built by Diocletian for his retirement. Today, within its walls, you'll find vibrant markets, restaurants, and galleries intertwined with remnants of ancient times. The main gem of Split is undoubtedly Diocletian's Palace, construction of which began in 295 AD for the Roman Emperor Diocletian as his residence. The palace stands today as a magnificent example of Roman architecture, blending elements of ancient style with medieval additions. It covers an area of over 3 hectares, and within its walls, you'll find a lively city with narrow streets, squares, restaurants, and shops. The palace includes temples, arched passageways, statues, and various buildings, including Diocletian's Cathedral of St. Domnius (on the site of the former emperor's mausoleum). Split's history continues through the Middle Ages, when the palace started to be inhabited by residents seeking refuge from barbarian invasions. This marked the beginning of the formation of the city of Split, whose development continued over the centuries. In addition to Diocletian's Palace, Split also features numerous other historical buildings, such as medieval churches, palaces, and walls. The city is imbued with memories of different eras that have shaped its development. However, Split is not just a historical city; it's a lively city that breathes with its inhabitants. For tourists, the old stone alleyways filled with vibrant markets, eateries, and shops are particularly appealing. For architects and urban planners of today, the most valuable site is the "urban monument" Split 3, designed half a century ago by my graduate mentor, the late Professor Vladimir Braco Mušič, and his architectural colleagues. This blend of history and modernity gives Split a unique energy, making it an attractive destination for visitors and history enthusiasts. In Split, you can't avoid the term "hajduk." Historically, Hajduks were rebellious fighters who played a significant role in the history of the Balkan Peninsula and southeastern Europe in the past centuries. Their role evolved based on the time period and political circumstances, ranging from national liberators to outlaws and fighters for social equality (similar to Robin Hood). The most famous hajduk today is undoubtedly the Hajduk Split football club. One of the most successful football clubs in this part of Europe, it is reportedly structured as a fan-owned corporation. Split and its surroundings constitute the economic center of the region with a wide range of activities. Situated on the eastern side of the Adriatic Sea, Split is one of the most important tourist destinations in Croatia, attracting visitors with its historical heritage, Diocletian's Palace, and vibrant city life. Tourism is a key economic factor, contributing to hospitality services, commerce, and other tourism-related activities.
The University of Split and other educational institutions contribute to the city's economic development. Culture, art, and sports events also add to the modern life of the city. Together, these activities form a mosaic that allows Split and its surroundings to maintain a dynamic economic environment, appealing to both the population and visitors.
TrogirThe city of Trogir, a stone maritime gem, is a picturesque town located on a small islet in the Adriatic Sea along the Croatian coastline.. It is protected as a UNESCO monument, as it has preserved its medieval charm throughout the centuries. It offers a picturesque combination of medieval streets winding through old buildings and the harbor. An admirable cathedral and numerous palaces testify to the rich history of this town. Trogir's rich historical heritage dates back to ancient times, founded by Greek settlers and later inhabited by Romans. The key historical period is the Middle Ages when the town reached its peak. Trogir was important in trade and maritime activities and was under the influence of the Venetian Republic. This period left the greatest imprint on Trogir, with numerous buildings, palaces, churches, and towers characteristic of medieval architecture. With its narrow cobblestone streets, medieval palaces, and impressive cathedral, the town is a true lesson in architecture and history. The center of the town is represented by the Trogir Cathedral of St. Lawrence, a true jewel of Romanesque architecture. The cathedral houses magnificent artistic treasures depicting scenes from Christian mythology. Also of exceptional importance on the western side of the town is the Kamerlengo Tower, which once served as a defensive tower and now offers a splendid view of the city walls and surroundings. While strolling through the town, you discover a multitude of medieval palaces and towers that testify to its rich past. Narrow cobbled streets weaving between stone houses and ancient palaces evoke a feeling of stepping into the past. The town is literally a living museum of history, where every corner unveils a new perspective on the past. Trogir remains a unique window into the past, unobscured by modern life. It is a place where visitors can deeply inhale the spirit of history and admire the architectural masterpiece of the medieval era. Trogir and its surroundings form an economically diverse area where various activities intertwine to contribute to the local economy: Foremost, tourism takes the lead, as Trogir is one of the better-known tourist destinations on the eastern Adriatic coast. Its rich historical heritage with picturesque streets and a beautiful coastline attract visitors. Those staying in hotels, apartments, and private accommodations make the most significant contribution to the local economy. Due to its coastal location, agriculture and fishing play important roles in the economy. The catch of various fish species provides fresh seafood, primarily for local consumption by residents and guests. Agriculture in the vicinity of Trogir relies on olives, grapes, citrus fruits, and vegetables. Olive oil and wine are well-known local products, also offered as souvenirs. What are the people of Trogir also living from? An essential part of the economic activity and support for what's been mentioned before are shops, markets, artisanal businesses, and restaurants. Local artisans and entrepreneurs engage in producing traditional goods such as handmade crafts, ceramics, textile products, thereby creating jobs and offering products and services that cater to the needs of both locals and visitors.
IntroWe used to be criticized for showing insufficient patriotism because we sometimes don't spend our summer vacation in the homeland. The Croatian coastline of the Adriatic Sea is almost six thousand kilometers long, while the Slovenian coastline is more than a hundred times shorter. Clearly, we have more opportunities on Croatian coast to find our idyllic cove or at least a spot to spread our towel. Our indulgence is to blame for choosing a destination this time that, in addition to the azure sea and an abundance of beaches, also offers a few magical historical towns - Central Dalmatia. We chose Trogir as our starting point, and from there, we set off by car or boat to explore the surroundings. In this article, I will also focus on the stunning Split and the charming Primošten, both one hour drive from Trogir. All three towns, although different in size and economic significance, are united by one common activity - tourism. These are internationally renowned tourist destinations that, due to their popularity during the season, are almost bursting at the seams. However, this is entirely understandable - rich historical heritage, charming ancient and medieval city centers, and picturesque coastline are the main reasons for their attractiveness that we cannot overlook.
It was a sunny Tuesday afternoon, around 7:30 p.m., one of the last days of our summer holidays. On our way from the beach back to town we were looking forward to exploring the natural wonders of Pag Island. Eagerly, we set out for a hike. Our destination: the unique oak and hornbeam forest, the only deciduous forest on the island. This forest, a rare ecological gem, has adapted to the salty environment of the island, making it a precious genetic resource. Protected since 1988 as a Special Reserve of Forest Vegetation, it spans 28.45 hectares and represents the last remnant of its kind on Pag. As we walked, I couldn't help but reflect on the historical and cultural significance of the oak tree. In Slavic mythology, the oak is sacred to Perun, the god of thunder and lightning. For the ancient Greeks, it was a symbol of Zeus, and for the Romans, of Jupiter. With the advent of Christianity, Perun's place might have been taken by Saint Vitus, as evidenced by the nearby hilltop named after him (Sv. Vid, the highest peak on the island at 348 meters). This type of oak typically doesn't tolerate salty conditions and usually grows at higher altitudes (400 to 900 meters near the coast, and up to 1700 meters inland). Yet, here it thrives all the way to the sea, an extraordinary feat. The forest path was well-maintained, and we took care to stay on it, mindful of the ancient belief that misfortune befalls anyone who fells a healthy oak. This legend lent an air of reverence to our journey. In the 19th century, Austrian geologists conducted coal mining and geological surveys on Pag, discovering numerous fossils. Later, INA (Croatia's oil company) drilled for oil, uncovering Miocene layers dating back 18 million years. These layers tell a story of a time when the Adriatic was mostly land, dotted with many lakes. Fossils of a vast lake with diverse life forms were found, including evidence that Pag was connected to the mainland, now known as the Velebit mountain range, until about 35 million years ago. By the end of the Pleistocene, around 12,000 years ago, rising sea levels formed the Velebit Channel, giving Pag its present shape, with the Pag Bay resembling an elongated lake. Curiosity piqued by the title, "Crocodiles Once Roamed Pag Island," you might think it's a fabrication. But it's true. Research revealed that Pag was once a marshy area near a lake, home to crocodiles, small mammals, shells, and fish, all amidst dense marsh vegetation. Among the many fossils discovered, the most intriguing were a crocodile tooth and a rare Valvata snail fossil. Today, the forest hosts a variety of wildlife, including numerous bats that feed at dusk and along the forest road, and one of Europe's largest beetles, the stag beetle (Lucanus cervus), with males boasting antler-like mandibles. Tempted to stay until dusk to see the bats and beetles, I kept my thoughts to myself, knowing others might hold me to it. Would you have stayed?
Ending March (22- 3. - 24. 3. 2018) Rajzefiber agency with supporters arranged Festivals of Walks in Maribor to promote some of the attractions in town. My heart raced hard from the day of announcing the festival and I applied for all the events that were timely possible. Let me tell you a bit about the ones connected to food and wine, i.e. culinary of Styria region.. Taste Maribor! Medieval Carinthian road (Koroška cesta) was leading farmers to the market on Main square (Glavni trg) Taste Maribor! was called the walk through some places strongly connected to food. Slovenia is a small country so its neighbours are close and influential. From Maribor there is just fifteen minutes drive to Austria, half an hour to Croatia, an hour to Hungary and two hours to Italy. Each of them had influence on nutrition and eating habits. It was Gostilnica "Pri Damah" (restaurant) that we visited first, social entrepreneurship on the right river bank. The manager introduced the kitchen, they mostly prepare porridge dishes (spoon food). We tried two of them, "ričet" and "bograč" and two beverages, "melisin sok" and "bezgov sok", everything made from ecological stuff in house and not expensive. It brought me back to times of my grandmother who knew cooking such dishes. I enjoyed food and memories.. On our way through town centre on the left bank of Drava river we have almost overseen the “Zadruga Dobrina” (cooperative) greengrocery shop. It is located in a narrow passage but making great impression with selling locally grown food and vegetables. Visiting small shop one can subscribe to weekly delivered “green box” - agricultural products from wider area. We tasted some varieties of cheese and got warm with walnut liqueur. Introduction through words and plates (Beef salad is called "essig fleisch" here). “Gostilna Maribor” (restaurant and hotel) was our next stop. This one was impossible to oversee since it is located on the Main square. Three hundred years old house was recently professionally renovated. Old walls still speak of rich history but allow one to enjoy modern amenities. We first enjoyed the welcome speech and introduction of hotel manager and then got into the culinary part of the offer. What was to taste? There were dishes like fried chicken, red chicory with warm potatoes and greaves and beef salad. I couldn’t help myself but tried all of it. Delicious. And surprised since I have never tasted such a combination of chicory salad before. A glass of dry wine, produced just outskirts of town, fit nicely, too. Maribor was once part of Habsburg's imperium so here one can catch real coffee house feeling. Former Casino was converted to charming eclectic bar, concert room, gallery and shop. Last post of this tour was former coffee house and casino, today “Salon uporabnih umetnosti” (Salon of Applied Arts). Over one hundred years old house was architectural pearl when built. Nowadays it is hosting artists when selling or performing. Old glory might even come back, it is also used for concerts and dancing again. Well, time was not right so we just let us serve some coffee and herbal tea (herbs harvested on Pohorje hill on southern border of town). This was very nice finish of festival walk, to rest our feet and exchange impressions. Beer Tasting Walk
Gambrinus bar is Mekka for afficionados of football and best czech beer. Everything begins with first step. Ours was into Gambrinus bar, small place of deep and strong feelings. Locals frequent it as football fans and dark interior is full of football relics. There is more behind, though. Gambrinus as personality from Middle Ages was a patron of beer brewing and the house where bar is located was once a brewery, too. The owner is inclined to czech varieties of beer that resemble the taste of beer once brewed here. It was Poutnik lager beer in fact that we drank. Light in taste. Cool bar Isabella in the middle of Post way (Poštna ulica), alive day and night, has dedicated pipes for best slovenian craft beers. Few streets away totally different interior waited for us. Isabella is a modern bar - shiny surfaces, new tastes. We got Human Fish beer to taste, brewed in Slovenia. Human Fish is also the name of first slovenian craft brewery. Our sample was Combat Wombat, beer combination of five types of hops, of light amber color and dirty white foam head. It was just strong enough that language brakes of our international group loosened. Third and final stop was at Pivarna, the only beer shop in Maribor. Three samples of beer were arranged, Tetkina radost, Champion and Hop Hazard, Pale Ale, all from Lobik Brewery, Maribor. This one holds title of the best newcomer craft beer brewery in Slovenia 2017. How should I comment? I liked all those samples, full smell and taste they have all even when different, but to bring home I bought Champion! Maribor Wine Tour When speaking about terroir I always think of Piramid Hill just above the old town. This one was the last on my schedule. This festival walk should have been best organised because Tourism information office in Maribor already sells this tour. Introduction was short since in Maribor one learns about wines on every corner. History goes back to Romans who brought vine here. But it was Austrian Archduke Janez (Johann Baptist Josef Fabian Sebastian) that found viticulture in Styria left behind and transfered wine varieties of the Rhine vineyards to his Meranovo estate near Maribor. Great success made this the center of modern viticulture in Slovenian and Austrian Styria. We had three stops scheduled. International group was first led to Dveri pax, wine shop and bar in Slavija office building. We tried two dry wines, Šipon from 2016 and Rhein Riesling from 2015. None of them made lasting impression, I would prefere them with food. But I know, it is dry that is trendy! A bit of sunshine is simply not enough for nature to wake up. Anyway, Water Tower (Vodni stolp) welcomes visitors all year long, Slovenes and tourist alike like it outside. Just few minutes away flows Drava river. There is a remarkable medieval building on the bank, called Vinoteka Vodni stolp (Water Tover Wine Shop), where first slovenian wine shop is situated. Small surprise awaited us, we got three samples: Šipon again, but from Puklavec wineyards, Sauvignon from Malečnik and house wine called Vodni stolp. While all wines that we tasted were straight, the last one was blended (Šipon, Sauvignon, Rhein Riesling). It didn't win. Last stop at Lent, again on the river bank was the most anticipated! There was the Old Vine house, a wine muzeum and also/maybe the best stocked wine shop in Slovenia. In front of house grows the Old Vine, by Guiness Book of Records acknowledged as the oldest noble Vine in the world, with proof of being more than 400 yers old. Žametna črnina (black velvet variety of grapevine) still brings grapes, which accounts for about 20 litres of wine yearly, put in artistically designed small bottles. No, we didn't taste it, it only serves protocol (like presidential visits). What did we taste at the Old Vine house? First sample was young wine (ranina, 2017) from Steyer, followed by Sauvignon blanc from 2017, produced by Kobal, dry and straight, smell and taste fuller than varieties we tasted before. But it was Muscat (rumeni muškat) from Senekovič later, half sweet wine of 2016 with great bouquet that really brought smiles to our faces. Nobody thought about what is en vogue (fresh and dry) or about the "long road" that we walked along until coming here, the museum guide had hard time answering our questions. This clearly was the winner, yes! Chili and Chocolate Festival Did I mention there was Chili & Chocolate Festival in Maribor last Saturday, too? Hard to believe these two ingredients go together well. But one can buy and taste some interesting, funny things like chocolate wafel with chili. I did. And didn't feel the expected hot taste. "Complaining" about it the lady said my expectations could not be met because the wafels were made for children ;-) I just don't want to look back and think "I could have eaten that!" Anyway, street food as a niche product (be it on food trucks or stalls) is slowly catching ground. Few festivals throughout the year are held to promote this kind of food. For now people think of it more like attraction than something to be taken seriously. All photos made during days of festival: ©2018 Rasto Kirn & ©2018 Olesya Kirn |
AuthorArchitect by education, Archives
April 2024
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